Here is my honest answer: keratin itself is not the danger. The risk comes from certain formulas, and from how a treatment is applied.
Keratin is the protein your hair is already made of, and treatments that use it can settle frizz and bring back shine. But “keratin treatment” is a name used for many different formulas, and they are not all the same.
Some smoothing formulas contain formaldehyde, or ingredients that release it when the hair is straightened with a hot iron. On an ingredient list it can hide behind the names formaldehyde, formalin or methylene glycol. Heated, it becomes a gas. The US Food and Drug Administration warns that breathing this gas can irritate the eyes, nose and lungs, and that skin contact can cause irritation and allergic reactions. International cancer researchers classify formaldehyde as a human carcinogen. That classification is about the substance itself; how risky any one treatment is depends on how much formaldehyde is released and how often you are exposed. Stylists face this day after day, and clients in the chair breathe it too.
And what if the product touches the scalp? These products are made for hair, not skin. On the scalp they can sting and irritate, and in sensitive people cause a rash or an allergic reaction, especially on skin that is already sore or broken. A careful stylist follows the manufacturer’s directions and keeps the product away from your skin. If your scalp is sore, cut or irritated, tell the salon before you book.
Wherever you go, here is how to look after yourself. Ask what is in the formula before you book, and whether it contains or releases formaldehyde. A good salon will answer honestly. Notice the room: it should be well ventilated, and your stylist should be wearing gloves. Never try these treatments on yourself at home. And if you ever feel burning eyes, a scratchy throat, dizziness or a rash during or after a treatment, tell the salon straight away and speak to your doctor.
A keratin treatment is not something to fear, but it is something to ask questions about first. If you are thinking about one, come and talk to us at either salon, 16 Beauchamp Place and Jumeirah Hotel, and we will answer honestly before anything touches your hair.
To keep hair soft between visits, at the salon we use the George Vallossian Repair Hair Mask, a leave-in mask you put on towel-dried hair. It is made to nourish and repair, and the product page lists heat and UV protection among its aims.
Have a question about your hair? Come in, have a coffee, and ask us. Or WhatsApp us any time - we answer 24/7.
George